Avenue of the Giants

Ahhh, do you feel the warmth? The warmth of the California sun?? Actually, I didn’t feel it either as the weather continues to be unseasonably cold along our route. We’ve been moteling it since we left Victoria, which was definitely not the plan. Checking the seasonal norms for our areas confirms it. We’re supposed to be in the mid to high teens for highs, and the low teens for overnight temperatures. Instead we’re getting cold front after cold front, bringing lots of rain and temperatures 10 degrees C below normal.

All this is to say we’re not complete wimps 😉

Anyway, we said goodbye to Oregon and crossed into the great state of California. Just over the border we came to a check stop which looked every bit like an international border crossing. The signs warned that everyone had to stop for an agricultural inspection, but we were just waived through. I suspect the “agriculture” they are looking for has something to do with Oregon decriminalizing marajuana. I guess we didn’t look hippyish enough 😉

We passed into the Eureka state unsearched, but with a little bit of sadness. Oregon has been so amazing, it felt sad to leave. But we have to get south, and the famous giant Redwoods of California beckoned. And we were soon rewarded as we passed through Redwood National Park. These trees are immense. When we camped on Vancouver Island near Parksville we lived in the midst of huge Douglas Firs, but they would be dwarfed by the Redwoods. Some looked to be three meters in diameter, and a hundred feet tall. Just amazing. And this was just a small taste of what was to come.

After lingering for a while in the midst of these giants we got back on the bikes in search of the night’s temporary home. Unlike most days, we had set out without a specific night’s plan. We booked no rooms, and didn’t know where we’d end up. Eureka the City (as well as the state’s slogan or motto or something…) looked promising on the Google, but when we got there it turned to be rather ugly. “Let’s Press On!” says I, so Ann our fearless leader for the day, took us off into unknown lands.

Highway 101 that we’d grown to love since Washington was slowly transforming into a freeway, complete with multi-lane traffic and speed limits of 65 mph, which translates into WAY TOO FAST! Ann spots a turn off, and we head into the unknown; towards a place called Ferndale. Turns out Ferndale is a touristy getaway for those who crave a victorian lifestyle. Most of the downtown buildings have preserved this old design, making it a quaint little city.

Our hotel had the same Victorian charm, luckily at off-season prices. It was charming, as was the owner who notices our Canadian accent. A very friendly fellow, just like virtually everyone we’ve met along this journey so far. That evening was spent in the local tavern, sipping area IPAs, and enjoying the company of friendly strangers. We finished the night with a takeout pizza and a glass or red wine.

The next day we headed off to drive the “Avenue of the Giants” through Humboldt Redwoods State Park. I figured we had already seen the big ones, but as is so often the case, I don’t know squat! The park claims to contain the world’s largest remaining contiguous old-growth forest of coast redwoods. I believe it.

It’s simply impossible for me to adequately match words and images to the immense, awe inspiring nature of these trees and this forest. You can feel their size; their sense of history. It is where myths are born. It is simply amazing.

We finished the visit with lunch in the park, then packed up and headed towards our evening home which had yet to be determined…