Going around the (Big) Bend

The wind that had left us stuck in Marfa for two extra days finally let  up enough, so we packed our bags (again) and headed south to Big Bend National Park where our new but already good friends, Linda and Roger (and Rascal) were waiting. The last night in El I’m too funky to be so hip Cosmico campground turned out to be the coldest night yet, hitting -10.7 ºC that night. So the choice to move into one of their over-priced “safari tents” turned out to be a good choice. We awoke to frozen food (zucchini) and ice on our covers. But the  heated bed, and Ann’s snuggles, kept me warm and toasty.

The drive to Big Bend was pretty easy. We stopped along the way for lunch, finding a food truck called Cow Dog, which served the most delectable hot dogs I’ve ever had (sorry Sam). Arriving in Cottonwood campground (one of three organized campgrounds in Big Bend) we reconnected with Roger and Linda, had another dinner courtesy of Linda’s great cooking, drank too many margaritas (Ann’s fault 😉 ), and made plans to do a hike the next day.

The next morning we had our typical slow breakfast and coffee, then piled in Vanna and drove to the start of the Santa Elena Canyon trail. The hike took us a short distance into a very deep and beautiful gorge along the Rio Grande River which marks the border here between the USA and Mexico. It was simply amazing.

The short path started with a switchback climb to a lookout, and then went back down, following the American side of the canyon. We took our time, taking plenty of pics, and just taking in the beauty of the place.

 

Back at camp we connected with another fast-friend by the name of Robert McNamara (no, not that Robert McNamara … at least, I don’t think so). Bob is travelling the country in his very stylish Airstream following the recent death of his long-time wife. Bob is one of those incredibly gregarious and kind people whom you can’t help but immediately enjoy. He reminds me (and Ann) of our other friend Chester (Chet), whom we had hoped to connect with in Mexico, but sadly won’t this year.

Anyway, Linda and Roger had met Bob before we arrived, and we all connected over Linda’s great cooking and great conversation. Bob not only travels in Airstream style, but he also carries with him an assortment of toys, including a kayak. He suggested we all spend the following day taking turns paddling the canyon that we had just hiked. It was an easy sell, so the next day we loaded back into Vanna and went back down to Stanta Elena Canyon and spent the day paddling and playing around the Rio Grande.

 

The following day we said goodbye to Bob who was carrying on west, while the rest of us agreed to meet up again in the main campground over at Rio Grande Village. Roger and Linda arrived early while we diverted back up to a nearby town to resupply. We met up with Rascal’s parents later that evening after another fascinating drive through this dry and interesting land.

 

This campground is right next to a border crossing to Boquillas in Mexico. This crossing, like all the other crossings along the Park, was closed following the  attacks of 9/11. I can only imagine how  economically devastating this must have been to the Mexican border towns which likely relied on US tourism for their existence. But the Boquillas crossing has recently been re-opened to foot traffic, so we decided to once again venture south to Mexico.

We drove down in Vanna and parked at US Customs. We were reminded about what we could not bring back, and also told the crossing closes at 5 pm, so we’d better be back before then. We then walked the short way down to the Rio Grande River, where our rowboat chariot awaited us. We all climbed in for the minute-long row across the border.

 

After paying the ferryman ($5/person for a return ticket) we were given  our options to get into the actual town of Boquillas, which is about 1 mile away. We could walk, take a pickup truck, ride a horse or climb aboard a burro. We all opted to make asses of ourselves, and climbed (or were assisted) up into the burro’s saddle.

 

Although I normally dislike having more than one brain operating any vehicle I’m driving, my burro required little guidance from me (thankfully). It dutifully plodded its way up the trail all the way to town. We had been assigned a guide named Martin, and he helped us all get through Mexican customs, and then gave us a grand tour of his little town which he was rightly proud of.

 

Boquillas had clearly suffered decline, I’m assuming during the closed-border period. There has been some major new improvements of late, including a new school, a hospital, and a solar power generating station that provided electricity for the whole town. But overall, the town looks rather impoverished.

 

 

I have little experience with so-called “third world” living. I suppose Boquillas would qualify for this category. The town was harsh and rough. The homes and buildings outside of the new  government ones, and the two clearly-tourista restaurants, were simple and course. The roads were haphazard and dirt (not even gravelled), and there were many buildings that were simply abandoned and falling down. But there was plenty to be proud of, including our guide Martin’s home, which was simple and beautiful (and he was clearly proud of it).

         

We ended our time in Boquillas with a fine Mexican lunch of tamales and enchiladas, all washed down with individually unique margaritas, each one seemed to have varying amounts of Tequila, ranging from none, to Wholly Schmolly! We ended our visit as it began, with a burro ride back to  the river, and then a short ferry ride over to America.

Linda and Roger are heading to Dallas to meet his sister-in-law and hopefully get a new cover for their air conditioner (which blew off in the Marfa wind storm). We spent a last night with them, drinking one too many a margarita (again, Ann’s fault) and enjoying our time together.

A final breakfast of pancakes (we finally cooked for them!), and a last goodbye and we are once again left to our own. I know we’ll stay in touch, and might even meet up again later. There was talk of connecting in Newfoundland (assuming we get there with out boat), but I know this is only a temporary goodbye. We will connect again.

For now, Ann and I are staying put in Big Bend. We plan to stay here at the main campground for a couple more nights, then probably head up into the hills to try out the last campsite at Chisos Mountain. After that we expect to carry on eastish, heading for the Gulf … but who knows where we’ll end up and who we’ll meet. A lovely couple on off-road motorcycles stopped by our site to introduce themselves, saying they had a long history riding scooters AND living seven years on a sailboat. They were impressed with our journey, and they invited us for dinner tonight, so the fun carries on!

BTW, Ann and I celebrated our 28th Anniversary yesterday over a fine feed of jalapino spiced wieners, instant hash browns, fried onions and garlic, and stir-fried frozen zucchini and tomatoes. All of this washed down and toasted with fine boxed wine. What could be a better Anniversary!