Author: Mike

Leaving friends and a cosy, warm house was hard, but winter was starting to bite in the mountain air, so we loaded up and pressed on. Our goal was Vancouver, which is south of Kamloops, so naturally we first headed north. Up through Cache Creek, north to highway #99, and then (finally) started south along an amazing twisty and secluded highway leading to Lillooet. The drive along the mighty Fraser River was incredible. Tight, twisty, steep and stunningly beautiful … which is doubly hard because with a route like this you need to keep your eyes on the road, and not the amazing scenes all around you.

The Town of Lillooet is perched on a bluff above the Fraser River, but we had to initially pass it by as the day was getting on, and we still had no place to pitch our tent. We were making for a free campsite some km south of the town along the Duffy Lake Road, but as as we crossed the Seton River just past Lillooet Ann spotted this sign for a BC Hydro campground. We did a quick U-turn, and headed into a lovely car camp tucked into the forest along a couple of creeks, with high mountains reaching skyward all around us. We took a spot right next to the babbling brook and set up home.

Turns out the campsite was not only free, but also included free wood delivered right to our site. Gotta love BC Hydro!

 

 

 

 

We set up camp and settled in for what we’d hoped would be a number of days. Sadly, we learned the park was slated to close in a few days. But we remained there for three wonderful nights. The first night, and then through the next day, the wind howled down the valley. Most of the wind was up at the tree tops, but gusts would find their way down to us every once in a while, shaking the tent and sending our gear fluttering. Going into town the second day (Thanksgiving Day) we stopped in at a local restaurant. Gotta love locals … we got chatting with some guys next to us about how far we’d come, and then the waitress started talking about the weather, and that something big was “Comin’ down the Duffy!” No kidding!!

We ate a lunch, which turned out to be too big but very yummy, and went back home to cook our Thanksgiving turkey meal, complete with fresh veggies, canned gravy and “fresh” turkey. We decided to cook it all on the 13th though, b/c neither of us could eat after the big restaurant meal. Still tasted great one day late.

 

The campsite was beautiful, but with towering mountains all around us and being rather high in altitude, the days were short and cool, and the nights even longer and colder. It was sad to pack up, but Ann’s toes and nose appreciated when we finally started to head south and down.

The road south was once again a stunningly gorgeous but challenging drive on the bikes. Temperatures were running around 3˚C at times, and Ann even spotted some frost on the road. But as we rounded past Pemberton and headed to Whistler the road slowly started getting lower in altitude, and busier in traffic. By Whistler we were back in urban traffic yeck. Drivers speeding like maniacs, and wall-to-wall cars. Oh joy…

We still had a few days to kill before our planned meet up with Donna in Vancouver, so planned to stop at a provincial park somewhat north of the Big City. Since it was my lead day I wisely drove past the first option (OK … I missed it on the highway), so we ended up in Porteau Cove on Howe Sound. We found a walk-in site right next to the water and settled in for a few days. It was wonderful being by the sea; the smells, the relative warmth, the wildlife. We were chatting near the shore when I see this little whiskered head pop up and look at us … my first seal! I love the Great Lakes, but the oceans are just teeming with life. It’s amazing.

We spent three days at Porteau Cove, enjoying the scenery, the wildlife, and the showers. It’s an amazing spot, but I was glad we were there in the off season. During the warm months it would be insanely busy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We finally packed up and headed into the scary Big City of Vancouver to meet sister Donna and niece Tasha.

A short run from Lumby took us into a whole new world of Kamloops. As usual, we took the backroads to our destination, and what a change a few 100km makes. We went from mountainous, twisty and wet, to wide open and dry. Its semi-desert conditions were a strange contrast to the previous few days of travel. What was also strange was meeting up with our friends from Marathon, ON. Cheryl and Pat & Harper Lee (pup) greeted us with open arms and a warm, soft bed. We were wined and dined, and got to spend many days reconnecting with them, and getting to know the Kamloops area. I learned the beer is fantastic, the salmon run was cool, and Harper Lee is the cutest thing ever!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One day Pat suggested an outing to a nearby park to see the salmon run. It’s not a high year, but still pretty amazing to see these overly-large fish trying to fight their way up very shallow streams. We enjoyed the company immensely, and I enjoyed the local beer perhaps a bit too much. Even the vegan cuisine was excellent (thanks Cheryl), although I will say I had this insatiable desire for a hamburger the day we left 😉

With our bikes fully serviced, and the threat of Alberta winter, we finally hit the road once again, heading into British Columbia. Our first taste of mountain travel came with our journey to Cranbrook, where we visited with Eileen O’Reilly (my Aunt-in-law) and her son Dugan. It was great to catch up with them, and reminisce about days gone by. We also got back into the camping lifestyle, staying a few nights at a nearby provincial park. There were no services, but the price was right — ZERO! Except that Ann felt guilty and decided to pay $12 for one night. Silly girl.

 

From Cranbrook we meandered our way up through Creston, across Kootenay Lake via the ferry, heading to Ainsworth area. We were in search of another free provincial park, but found instead this bizarre and wonderful place called Toad Rock. It is billed as a motorcycle campground. The best way to describe the space is old hippy mixed with junk-yard couture. Available spaces includes old school and VW busses, rough shacks, and campsites with old fridges and other junk. We opted for a site in the “back 40”, and settled in for a relaxing night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ainsworth Hot Spring is a treasured memory from days when we lived in Cranbrook. It’s a natural hot spring that has been developed (of course), but still has some semi natural cave areas. The water is hot and inviting, so we checked into a nearby motel and spent a relaxing day and night lounging in the waters, eating, and sipping wine on our balcony.

After one night of luxury living we were sorely tempted to stay, but weather and the long road beaconed, so off we went, passing through Kaslo, up and over some amazing twisty roads, to Nakusp and then back down Arrow Lake to grab the ferry at Fauquier. We were planning to stop at a campground along the way, but the cold of the road, combined with a bit of rain, made the warm glow of a Lumby motel too inviting to pass up. The night was spent there sipping wine, munching on food we had bought in Kaslo, and planning our leap to Kamloops where we had friends with a warm house awaiting.

Our hosts, and in many ways our protectors and safety blanket, have been Donna and Sam. They have been kind and generous beyond compare, letting us stay at their house in Calgary, and also at their cabin on Beauvais Lake near Pincher Creek. So it was with pleasure that we landed on their doorstep in Cow Town, where we spent a few days sorting ourselves out, cleaning up, and generally getting ready for Ann’s Mother’s memorial service. It was a beautiful event that allowed family and friends to say their final goodbyes to a woman who has meant so much to so many. I miss her deeply…

With the formalities over we settled into the cabin at Beauvais like fleas on a dog. It’s so peaceful and relaxing (and warm and dry…) that we might never have left. We read, paddled and fished,  and had great discussions, covering Life, the Universe and Everything . It was great just hanging out with family, relaxing, and getting ready for our next steps.

 

BTW, I should add that we are now expert hanging ceiling installers. Check out the work! 

 

A few months or so into the journey has us lingering on Vancouver Island as we await our travel insurance to kick in, and hopefully continue to avoid the white fluffy stuff. We left Southern Ontario what seems like years ago, but was really only in August. Since then we’ve driven across the country, encountered winds that could blow a motorcycle laterally across the road, enjoyed the grandest company and generosity of family and friends, and learned that everything looks better from the seat of a bike: even the Prairies.

Northern Ontario was spectacular as ever. We visited with many good friends, including Cathie and Joe who fed us (too well!) and shared their slice of heaven with us once again. Ben, Sherilyn & Olivia, who are generous and fun beyond compare (and who are kindly watching over our few remaining household items), Pat our old (er, I mean previous) neighbour who is holding down the Sandy Beach fort, and our great friends and mentors Paul & Julie who put us up (and put up with us).

Driving across the Prairies was a pleasant surprise. I’ve done it a few times by car, and I’m sorry but it is Capital-B BORING. But from the seat of a bike it was completely different. The smells, the sights, even the curves (yes, there are curves … at least in the secondary roads we took) made the journey quite fun. We found the rare and difficult-to-kiss Prairie Camel,

met some fellow travellers, including Mohamed from Australia (originally from Iran),

who was headed east on his motorcycle, and of course plenty of good eats and food. 

And, I discovered that I look even older than I thought — I was offered the “Senior’s Rate” at a motel in  Swift Current! Ah well, whaddya gonna do … 

 

 

 

We discovered Al Capone’s Hideaway,

Ann’s lake,  and found out that Dog River is real,  but kinda small .

After enduring hurricane-force winds from Swift Current to Alberta, we finally made it to Calgary, into the welcome and safe arms of Donna and Sam. We cleaned up, slept well, and got ready for Ann’s mom’s memorial and the next steps in our journey.

It’s both fun and a little scary to say we are now land-homeless, and basically without any significant income. I guess we officially started our full-time cruising lifestyle a few months ago when we said goodbye to our house in Thunder Bay, and made our way down to southern Ontario where our boat lay waiting. A sudden (but not unexpected) family death derailed our sailing plans for this year, so our first year of “cruising” will be spent exploring the continent by motorcycle and tent.

We have a few friends and family members we plan to visit along the way, but most of the time will be spent living simply and (hopefully) cheaply, all the while visiting interesting and warm places. We’ll get back to the boat in early April and carry on from there.

Our cruising plans quite intentionally have a certain philosophical approach; CLAFC: Creativity, Learning, Adventure, Freedom & Cessation. Each of these terms expresses a world of ideas that are important for how me and my partner choose to live. We live with these ideas whether we are off wilderness sailing, or living on land.

Creativity is a life-giving view of the world. For me it means seeking new ways of doing things, and simply enjoying the aesthetic of the here and now.

Learning … never stop learning. Living off the prescribed path is a great way to foster this.

Adventure comes in all forms, be it the big sail, or the small walk. I will never shatter records, discover new things, or challenge the gods of nature in any way, but I do enjoy poking into that unknown cove, or trying that weird looking vegetable.

Freedom drives much of what we do. To me freedom is the ability to do what I want, when I want. It’s an ideal which is never full reached, but I can do some things to go toward the Form of Freedom. For me (and not necessarily for anyone else):

• I avoid debt (b/c this is one of the ways our society keeps people chained to the treadmill).
• Keep mechanical & electrical systems simple (b/c I’m not much of handyman).
• And live inexpensively, (b/c I’m kinda lazy and don’t like wage work).

Cessation is my active way of ceasing to be part of the problem. From over-consumption to financial greed, my society does great harm to the planet we all call home. I don’t have the energy to try and save the world, but I can stop being part of the problem (at least to some degree).